Organic Cosmetics article continued...

Product #2   Certified Organic Cream

Our next example is the ingredient list of a certified organic body moisturiser.

According to the ingredients listed in order, this product is made from a proprietary blend of organic native Australian distilled herbal extracts.  We know these extracts to have potent antibacterial and healing properties.

What else does this product contain?
 
We find nourishing natural oils that heal and soften the skin, purified water, and Organic Cocoa Butter to naturally thicken the cream and provide nourishing emollience to the skin.

We also find natural lecithin, non-GMO, to help restore the barrier function of the skin.  There’s Sugar-Cane Ethanol, which is a natural alcohol to help the natural emulsification of the cream (keeping it a cream, rather than two distinct layers of oil and water).

Organic Unrefined Beeswax helps thicken the cream and forms a protective barrier on the skin to prevent dehydration without clogging the pores.  Cold-pressed essential oil from the skin of organic limes gives the product a refreshing aroma with natural anti-bacterial properties.

It contains the natural antioxidant in olive extract, to prevent free-radical damage to the skin.  Olive also and grapefruit seed extract act as natural preservatives.  And this one may be hard to pronounce, but Sclerotium gum is actually a natural gum that helps thicken the formula.

When In Doubt, Check the Label

Just from this experiment, you already know more about what to look for in your personal care products than 90% of consumers.  So the next time you question whether the cosmetic you’re about to purchase is really worth the money, just check the label. 

Cosmetics Don’t Have to Contain Chemicals

 Here’s the ugly truth about the beauty industry.  It’s a business.  And for most companies, cutting corners costs less than using high quality ingredients.  Quite simply, cosmetic manufacturers use chemicals because they are cheap and readily available. 

So what are the natural alternatives to chemicals?

Whether synthetic or natural, all cosmetics contain emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, and preservatives.  We’ll break these down into categories to understand the difference between the synthetic and natural versions of each.

Emollients

With dual roles, emollients prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent, lubricating the skin and even helping reduce fine wrinkles. 

Synthetic emollients are occlusive, meaning they coat the skin.  Some examples are alcohols containing the phrase benzyl, butyl, cetyl, glyceryl, isopropyl, or propylene.

Skin that can’t breathe is more likely to become irritated.  But that’s not all.  Some synthetic emollients are known to promote tumours by accumulating in the liver and lymph nodes.

On the other hand, natural emollients actually nourish the skin.   Some examples are Plant Oils (Jojoba, Avocado, and Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa, and Jojoba Butters.  They are metabolized by your body’s enzymes and absorbed into the skin.  More importantly, natural emollients are of edible quality.  Remember the rule?  If you wouldn’t put it in your mouth, don’t put it on your skin.

Humectants

Creams keep the skin moist by preventing the upper layer from drying out.  Conventional creams with the occlusive (non-breathing) barrier can lead to swelling and irritation.   Propylene glycol and Ethylene/Diethylene Glycol are the common chemical humectants.
 
Collagen, elastin, and keratin have become popular humectants.   Though they aren’t harsh on the skin, they are actually animal by-products, and can’t be labeled as “cruelty free”.

The most effective natural humectants are lecithin, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and glycerin.   Glycerin works very well in humid climates, using the moisture in the air to keep the skin hydrated.

Emulsifiers

A combination of ingredients that normally would not mix together can be held combined with the use of emulsifiers.  It involves either a physical substance (like a wax) or a physical action (shaking the container). Synthetic emulsifiers that are petroleum or hydrocarbon derivatives may cause allergic reactions.

Natural emulsifiers are derived from various nuts, berries, and leaves. A variety of natural options exist, such as Plant Waxes (Candelilla, Carnauba, Jojoba, Rice Bran), Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, and Quince Seed.

Surfactants

Also known as surface-active-agents, these substances emulsify oils and suspend dirt so it can be rinsed away with water.   They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos. 

Sodium lauryl sulfates are harsh detergents used for industrial efforts like engine degreasing.  Yet somehow it is used in thousands of personal care products. 

Ethoxylated surfactants (using ethylene or propylene oxide in the chemical reaction) can be contaminated with dioxane, a potent carcinogen. 

Amides are another harmful group of surfactants.   You’ll find these containing the term TEA - triethanolamine, DEA – diethanolamine and MEA, monoethanolamine.  Compounds containing TEA, DAE and MEA can form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic.  A recent study found that over 40% of products containing triethanolamine (TEA) were contaminated with these potent carcinogens.

Natural foaming agents, or saponins, are the natural options for shampoos.  Ingredients like Castile Soap, Yucca Extract, Soapwort, and Quillaja Bark Extract can gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping away natural oils.

Preservatives

Foods don’t last forever.  Neither should your cosmetics. 

However, the chemicals used to preserve cosmetics are far more toxic than the bacteria they are designed to protect us from.   This has been proven countless times through animal testing.  Chemical preservatives are not used to protect you; they are used to help the manufacturer make the maximum shelf life of the product. You may recognize some of the following names: Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben.  All of these are known to be toxic and irritating to the skin.

Natural cosmetics will last longer simply by storing them in the fridge. As for natural preservatives, a combination of grapefruit seed, rosemary, and olive extracts has been proven effective way to extend natural cosmetics shelf life.